HAWAIIAN REFERENCE LIST
Adams, Wanda. 1978. "Fashioning a Tour of the Past." Honolulu Star Bulletin.

Adams, Wanda. 1990. "Holoku History." Honolulu Advertiser. March 14: B1.

Allen, Miss A.J. 1850 . Dr. White's Travels and Oregon Adventures. Ithaka, NY: Press of Andrus, Gauntlet and Co. (Original work published 1836).

Anderson, Mary. 1865. Scenes in the Hawaiian Islands and California. Boston: American Tract Society.

Anderson, Mary. 1865. Scenes in the Hawaiian Islands and California. (Boston: American Tract Society, 1865).

Anderson, N. J. (1854). A voyage around the world with the Swedish frigate Eugenie. (Fr. Reginald, Trans.) Groningen, Netherlands: J. B. Wolters.

Anderson, Nils. 1854. A Voyage Around the World with the Swedish Frigate Eugenie. Groningen: J. B. Wolters.

Andrews, Lorin. (1836). A vocabulary of words in the Hawaiian language. Lahainaluna, HI: Press of the High School.

Andrews, Lorin. (1865). A dictionary of the Hawaiian language. Honolulu:

Arago, Jacques. 1823. Narrative of a Voyage Around the World 1817-1820. London: Treuttel, and Wurtz.

Arthur, Linda. (1997). Cultural authentication refined: The case of the Hawaiian Holoku. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 15.

Arthur, L. B. The Development of Hawaiian Textile Design. Manuscript in preparation for Schiffer Books.

Arthur, L. B. (2000) Aloha Attire: Hawaiian Dress in the Twentieth Century. Atglen, PA. Schiffer Books.
CLICK HERE to review or purchase book

Arthur, L. B. (in press). Visual Communication of Status in Hawaii during the post-contact period: Pacific and Asian Communication Association E-Journal.. (April/May 2000).

Arthur, L. B. (1998). Fossilized fashion in Hawai`i. Paideusis-Journal for Interdisciplinary and Cross-Cultural Studies (1). A15-A28.

Arthur, L. B. (1998). Hawaiian women and dress: The holoku as an expression of ethnicity. Fashion Theory, 2 (3). 269-286.

Barnard, Charles. 1829. Voyage Around the World. London: J. Lindon Printers.

Barnard, Charles. 1829. Voyage Around the World. (London: J. Lindon, 1829).

Beechey, R. N. (1831). Narrative of a voyage to the Pacific in the years 1825, 1826, 1827 and 1828. London. Coleman & Bentley.

Bennett, Frederick. 1840. Narrative of a Whaling Voyage for the Years 1833 to 1836. (London: R. Bentley, 1840).

Bird, Isabella. 1882. Six Months in the Sandwich Islands. New York: G. P. Putnam.

Bishop, Sereno. Jubilee celebration 1837-1887. The Forbes Notes. Missionary Letters. HMCS. (Hawaiian Mission Children's Society).

Bishop, Sereno. (1887). Jubilee celebration 1837-1887. The Forbes notes. Unpublished manuscripts, Hawaiian Mission Children’s Society Library at the Mission Houses Museum, Honolulu, HI.

Chamberlain, M. P. (1831, November 8). Letter to James Patton. Unpublished manuscripts. Mission Houses Museum, Honolulu, HI.

Chamberlain, Maria. 1820. Letter to James Patton. Unpublished manuscripts. Mission Houses Museum, Honolulu, HI.

Chamberlain,Maria. letter to Jane Patton, 8 Nov. 1831, Missionary Letters, Lyman House and Mission Museum, Hilo, HI.

Cheever, Henry. 1851. Life in the Sandwich Islands. (New York: Barnes, 1851).

Cohen, Abner. 1974. "The Lesson of Ethnicity." Urban Ethnicity. London: Tavistock.

Cooper, G. R. (1976). The sewing machine, its invention and development. Washington, D. C.: Smithsonian Institution.

Costumes of Hawai’i. (1965). Unpublished booklet for Hawaiian Arts 152 at the University of Hawai’i.

Cracroft, Sophia. 1958. "Journal of Sophia Cracroft’s visit to the Sandwich Islands in 1861," In Alfons Korn, (Ed.), The Victorian Visitors. (Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1958).

                     Daws, Gavan. 1974. Shoal of Time: A History of the Hawaiian Islands. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press. Development of the Holoku. 1950. Paradise of the Pacific (61), May: 12-13.

Dibble, Maria Tomlinson(?). (1833, September 1). [Typescript letter to her sister]. Available from HMCS library @ Mission Houses Museum

Dibble, Maria. letter to her sister, 1 Sept. 1833, Missionary letters, HMCS.

Eberly, Elizabeth. (1973). The story of the holok and mu’umu’u. [brochure]. Honolulu: Hawaii State Library.

Eicher, Joanne & Erekosima, Tonye (1980). Distinguishing non-western from western dress: The concept of cultural authentication [abstract]. Proceedings of the 1980 Annual Meeting of the Association of College Professors of Textiles and Clothing. 83-84.

Eicher, Joanne. (1994). Re-examining cultural authentication to analyze dress and textiles. [abstract]. Proceedings of the 1994 Annual Meeting of the International Textiles and Apparel Association. 116.

Emerson, J. (1845). He Hoakakaolelo No Na Huaolelo Beritania, I Mea Kokua I Na Kanaka Hawaii E Ao Ana Ia Olelo. Lahainaluna: Mea Pai Palapala o ke Kulanui.

Emerson, Oliver. 1928. Pioneer days in Hawaii: The Journal of the Reverend and Mrs. Emerson 1831-1834. (New York: Doubleday, 1928).

Erekosima, Tonye V. (1979, October). The tartans of Buguma women: Cultural authentication. Paper presented at the meeting of the African Studies Association, Los Angeles, CA.

Erekosima, Tonye V., & Eicher, Joanne B. (1981). Kalabari cut-thread and pulled-thread cloth. African Arts 2, 48-51, 87.

Fundaburke, Emma. 1965. The Garment Manufacturing Industry of Hawai’i. Honolulu: Economic Research Center.

                     Furer, Gloria. 1983. "Designs of Hawaiian Wear". [abstract]. Proceedings of the Association of College Professors of Textiles and
                    Clothing: 13-20. Goodwin, Richard. 1962. "Those Elegant Years." Paradise of the Pacific. 74: 106-123.

Gordon, Beverly. 1987. "Fossilized Fashion: Dress as a Symbol of a Separate, Work-Oriented Identity." Dress 13: 49-59.

Grimshaw,Patricia. 1989. Paths of duty: American Missionary Wives in 19th Century Hawai’i. (Honolulu: University of Hawai’i Press, 1989).

H. M. Whitney.

Haas, Michael. 1994. "Explaining Ethnic Harmony: Hawaii’s Multicultural Ethos." Paper presented at the American Sociological Association annual meeting, Los Angeles, CA.

Hawaii State Data Book. 1996. Online research, table 1.24.

Hawaiian Mission Children’s Society Library, Mission Houses Museum, Honolulu, HI.

Helvenson, Sally. 1989. "The much maligned Mother Hubbard: A Study of Unfashionable Dress". [abstract]. Proceedings of the Association of College Professors of Textiles and Clothing: 39.

Holman,Lucia. 1931. Journal of Lucia Ruggles Holman. Special Publication 17. (Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1931).

Holok -- Origin and Evolution. 1907. Picturesque Honolulu. Honolulu: Hawaiian Gazette: 44-5.

Hussey, Wilfried. (1940). "Holoku: Hawaii's glamour gown". Honolulu Advertiser Magazine Section: 1. June 9.

Ii, John. (1983). Fragments of Hawaiian history. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press.

Ingvoldstad, Ann, De Long, Marilyn, & Koh, Aeran. (1994, October). Cultural authentication of jeans in the United States and Korea. Paper presented at the annual meeting of the International Textiles and Apparel Association, Minneapolis, MN.

Jacques Arago, Narrative of a Voyage Around the World 1817-1820. (London: Treuttel, and Wurtz, 1823).

                     Judd, Walter. 1975. Palaces and Forts of the Hawaiian Kingdom. Palo Alto: Pacific. July 12: G 1.  
Kaeppler, Adrien. (1980). The persistence of tradition. In R. Rose, (Ed.) Hawai’i, the royal isles. (pp.53-62). Honolulu. Bishop Museum Press.

Kefgen, Mary and Phyllis Touchie-Specht. 1986. "Glossary." Individuality in Clothing Selection and Personal Appearance. New York: Macmillan.

Khan, Leimomi. 1994. Personal Communication.

Kim, H. J. & DeLong, Marilyn. (1992). Sino-Japanism in western women's fashionable dress in Harper's Bazaar, 1890-1927. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 11 (1), 24-30.

Kirkpatrick, John. 1987. "Ethnic Antagonism and Innovation in Hawaii." Pp. 298-316 in Ethnic Conflict: International Perspectives, edited by J. Boucher, D. Landis and K. Clark. Newbuy Park: Sage.

Kotzebue, Otto von. 1821. Kotezebue's Voyage of Discovery 1815-1818. London: Longman, Thirst, Rees, Orme and Brown.

Laver, James. 1969. Modesty in Dress. Boston: Houghton Mifflin.

Loomis, A. (1951). Grapes of Canan. New York: Dodd, Mead and Co.

Loomis, Elisha. (1824). The Journal of Elisha Loomis, missionary printer. Available from Hawaiian Pacific Collection, Hamilton Library, University of Hawai’i, Honolulu, HI.

Loomis, Elisha. 1824. The Journal of Elisha Loomis, Missionary Printer. Hawaiian Pacific Collection, Hamilton Library, University of Hawai’i, Honolulu, HI. 1824.

Lynch, Annette, Detzner, D., & Eicher, Joanne. (1995). Hmong American New Year rituals: Generational bonds through dress. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 13, (2). 111 -121.

Lyons, Barbara. 1963. "The First Holoku." Hawaii Historical Review: 54-56.

Lytle, Drew. 1952. "Regal Holokus Recall Polynesian History." Honolulu Advertiser: 1-5.

                     McClellan, Edwin. 1950. Holoku and mu'umu'u. Forecast Magazine. Honolulu: Outrigger Canoe Club: 12. Mead, P. and Pederson, Elaine. (1995). West African apparel textiles depicted in selected magazines from 1960 - 1979. Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal 25, (4). 430-452.

Michelman, S. and Eicher, J. (1995). Dress and gender in Kalibari women’s societies. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 13. (2) 121-130.

Michelman, Susan. (1992). Dress in Kalabari women’s societies. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, University of Minneapolis, St. Paul.

Missionary Herald, (1832). Extracts from the Joint Letters of the Hilo Mission. Hilo, HI: Lyman House Memorial Museum.

Missionary Herald, (1833). Extracts from the Joint Letters of the Hilo Mission. Hilo, HI: Lyman House Memorial Museum.

Missionary Herald, (1834). Extracts from the Joint Letters of the Hilo Mission. Hilo, HI: Lyman House Memorial Museum.

Missionary Herald, (1835). Extracts from the Joint Letters of the Hilo Mission. Hilo, HI: Lyman House Memorial Museum.

Missionary Herald, (1836). Extracts from the Joint Letters of the Hilo Mission. Hilo, HI: Lyman House Memorial Museum.

Missionary Herald, (1837). Extracts from the Joint Letters of the Hilo Mission. Hilo, HI: Lyman House Memorial Museum.

Mortelier, Christiane. 1992. "Waimea, Kauai in 1839: An Account by Louis Thiercelin, Whaling Doctor," p. 144 in Gary Best & Mary Best, (Eds.), Glimpses of Hawaiian Daily Life and Culture, 1778-1898 (New York: American Heritage Custom Publishers, 1994).

Okamura, Jonathan. 1992. "Why There Are No Asian Americans in Hawai’i: The Continuing Significance of Local Identity." Paper presented at the National Conference of the Association of Asian American Studies, San Jose, CA.

Olmstead, Francis Allyn. (1841). Incidents of a Whaling Voyage. In GaryD. Best & Mary L. Best, (Eds.), Glimpses of Hawaiian daily life and culture, 1778-1898. (p. 148). New York: American Heritage Custom Publishers. 148.

Pannabecker, Rachel K. (1988). The cultural authentication of ribbon: Use and test of a concept. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 7 (1), 55-56.

Paulding, Hiram. 1831. Journal of the cruise of the US schooner Dolphin (New York: G & C Carvill, 1831).

Rose, R. (1980). Hawai’i, the royal isles. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press.

Sandwich Island Missionary Journal. (1824). Journal to the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions in Boston. Hawaiian Mission Children’s Society Library. Honolulu: Mission Houses Museum.

Schiffer, Nancy. (1997). Hawaiian Shirt Designs. Atglen, PA.: Schiffer Publications.

Simpson, George. 1847. An Overland Journey Round the World During the Years 1841 and 1842, (Philadelphia: Lea & Blanchard, 1847).

Sobrero, Gina. 1887. An Italian Baroness in Hawai’i: The Travel Diary of Gina Sobrero, Bride of Robert Wilcox. (Honolulu. Hawaiian Historical Society, 1887).

Steele, Thomas. 1984. The Hawaiian shirt, its art and history. (New York: Abbeville Press, 1984).

Stewart, Gail. 1977. Ancient Hawaiian Dress and the Influence of European Dress on it,1778-1820. Unpublished Master’s thesis, University of Hawai’i.

Strauss, Anselm. (1994). Language and identity. In P. Kollock & J. O'Brien, (Eds.) The production of reality: Essays and readings in social psychology, (pp. 73-77) m Thousand Oaks, CA: Pine Forks Press.

Thrum, Thomas. 1896. Thrum’s Hawaiian almanac and annual: The authoritative handbook of information on matters relating to the Hawaiian Islands. (Honolulu, HI. 1896). 67.

Thurston, Asa & Rev. Bishop, A. "Difficulty of Introducing Purity of Morals Among a Barbarous People. Missionary Herald, 28, (1832), 220-221.

Thurston, Asa, and Rev. A. Bishop. 1832. "Difficulty of Introducing Purity of Morals Among a Barbarous People." Missionary Herald, 28: 220-221.

Thurston, Lucy G. (1882). Life and times of Mrs. Lucy G. Thurston, wife of Rev. Asa Thurston, pioneer missionary to the Sandwich Islands, gathered from letters and journals extending over a period of more than fifty years, selected and arranged by herself. Ann Arbor, MI: S.C. Andrews.

Tyreman, Daniel and George Bennett. 1831. Journal of Voyages and Travel. London: Fredrick Westley and A.H. Davis.

Tyreman, Daniel & George Bennett, Journal of Voyages and Travel. (London: Fredrick Westley and A.H. Davis, 1831).

Wills, Fred. (1913, May ). "The story of the holoku." Mid Pacific Magagine: 465-7.

World Photo Press. (1997). Master Book of Hawaiian Shirt. Tokyo, Japan: World Photo Press.

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 These historical records are found at Mission Houses Museum, in Honolulu, The Lyman Museum in Hilo, and the Hawaiian and Pacific Collection at Hamilton Library, at the University of Hawai’i. In addition, over 2,000 19th and 20th Century illustrations and photos of Hawaiian women in both the Hawaiian state archives and the Bishop Museum were examined . Content analysis of a usable sample of 836 photos was used to determine costume designs and style features.

Maria Chamberlain, letter to James Patton, 6 Oct. 1820. Lyman House and Mission Museum, Hilo, HI. ; Otto von Kotzebue, Kotezebue's voyage of discovery 1815-1818. (London: Longman, Thirst, Rees, Orme and Brown, 1821); Lucy Thurston, Life and times of Mrs. Lucy G. Thurston, wife of Rev. Asa Thurston, pioneer missionary to the Sandwich Islands, gathered from letters and journals extending over a period of more than fifty years, selected and arranged by herself, (Ann Arbor, MI: S.C. Andrews, 1882).

G.......Stewart, Ancient Hawaiian Dress and the Influence of European Dress on it (1778-1820). Unpublished master’s thesis. (Honolulu: University of Hawai’i, 1977).

Kotzebue, 1821.

5 Kotzebue, 1821; Barbara Lyons, (1963, April). "The First Holoku," Hawaii Historical Review, 1963), 54-56; A........Loomis, (1951). Grapes of Canan, (New York: Dodd, Mead and Co., 1951); Gavin Daws, Shoal of Time: A History of the Hawaiian Islands, ( Honolulu: University of Hawaii P. 1974); J....... Ii , Fragments of Hawaiian history. (Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1983).

Allen, 1836; Barnard, 1829; Kotzebue, 1821; Tyreman and Bennett, 1831; Lyons, 1963.

Chamberlain, 1820; Daws, 1974; Ii, 1983; Anderson, 1854; Arago, 1823

Kotzebue, 1821; Tyreman & Bennet, 1831; Wills, 1913

"Holoku", 1907; McClellan, 1950; Thurston, 1882

Thurston, 1882; Loomis, 1951; Lyons, 1963.

"Holoku", 1907; Lyons, 1963

Thurston, 1882, p. 31. The ali’i were larger than commoners due to the tribute system; they were presented with vast stores of food in payment by the commoners. The system was eliminated in 1819.

Thurston, 1882, Loomis, 1951; Fundaburke, 1965; "Holoku", 1907; McClellan, 1950

Fundaburke, 1965; Furer, 1983

Fundaburke, 1965; Furer, 1983; Helvenston, 1989; "Holoku", 1907; McClellan, 1950

1963, p. 55-56.

Anderson, 1865; Helvenston, 1989.

Thurston, 1882.

Allen, 1836; Loomis, 1824; Barnard 1829; Kotzebue, 1821; Tyreman and Bennett, 1831; Simpson, 1847; Cracroft, 1861

Loomis, 1824.

Simpson, 1847

Anderson, 1865

Cheever, 1851

Bennett, 1840

Simpson, 1947, p. 142.

Chamberlain, 1834; Thurston, 1882

Chamberlain, 1834; Missionary Herald, 1834, 1835, 1836

Missionary Herald, 1833

Emerson, 1834; Bishop, 1887. There are two kapa holoku in museums today; there are apparently was no standard style for the garment.

Bishop, 1837; Missionary Herald, 1833.

Missionary Herald, 1833

Bishop, 1837; Missionary Herald, 1837.

"Holoku, 1907.

Thrum’s Annual, 1896.

A. Thurston, Missionary Herald, 1832, p. 222).

Thurston, 1882; Stewart, 1977; Loomis, 1951; Missionary Herald, 1832; Grimshaw, 1989.

Bird, 1873.

"Holoku", 1907.

Steele, T. 1984. The Hawaiian Shirt.

Kawakami, B. 1993. Japanese Immigrant Clothing in Hawaii 1885-1941. Honolulu. University of Hawaii Press.

Currently, silkies from the 1940s and 1950s can cost up to $3,000 at auction.

Marcia Morgado, personal communication. 22 August 1996. Mano

. Missionary Herald, (1832). Extracts from the Joint Letters of the Hilo Mission. Hilo, HI: Lyman House Memorial Museum.